I sat at the table of life. Then he walked by and saw me sitting there alone. He joined me, by impulse, I suppose. I was pleased, for I had long hoped to feast with him. Here, I said, fried chicken, glistening outside, juicy in. I fed him the white meat with my hands. Great rounded mounds of mashed potatoes, rich with butter and heavy cream. Smooth pan gravy to pool on top, tender spears of new asparagus. Crisp, tart watercress and firm, vine-ripe tomatoes, coated with wine vinegar and virgin olive oil. And afterward, dense lemon pie, topped with a cloud of pale meringue. He seemed satisfied enough with my food. And there is no denying he was hungry— he ate so fast. Almost before the meal was through, he pushed back his chair to go. I was sad to see him leave, for I had thought that he might tarry at the table, taking just one more hot biscuit, one more slice of pie. For a time I sat there, food cooling around me, crusts and skins forming on its surfaces, islands of fat solidifying on the sauces. Then one day he wandered by again and seemed surprised to see me there. I offered him some of my specialties: plump pillows of gnocchi verde, risotto milanese, billowy warm foam of zabaglione. Well, he didn’t know. He had so many other things to do. I said, Would you like raw oysters, tasting of the sea, slipping down your throat? Oozing Camembert and Brie? Or prosciutto e melone, the pink translucent ham wrapped around chilled sweet cantaloupe? Porc braisé aux choux rouges? Or lamb chops, thick ones, rare inside, rubbed with broken garlic cloves? Fat heavy loaves of country bread with fresh curls of sweating butter and, at the end, reine de saba, studded with coarse-crushed almonds, slicked with a semisweet chocolate glacé? Then he explained he didn’t really like full-course meals. It wasn’t that he wasn’t hungry—he just preferred to eat and run, grazing at different tables. But, he said, as long as he was here, he might have a nibble, just a bite or two. Still, I tried to tempt him with dessert, offering him many cunning forms of dolci: chewy amaretti, dead-ripe black figs napped with double cream, gelati rough with hazelnuts, and bright sorbetti clogged with fruit. Hard little bites of chocolate truffles with espresso, dark, silky chocolate mousse to melt on his tongue, tiny glasses of intense liqueurs. I promised him that if he’d stay the night, for breakfast I would give him cappuccini, warm briosce with raspberry jam, or scones with mountain honey and clotted cream, orange juice just squeezed, late peaches, heaping bowls of summer berries with crème fraîche. But no, he said, he had to go. After that he dropped by from time to time, and now and then he seemed inclined to dally. There were evenings when a steaming entree seemed to hold him—particularly, as I recall, my chiles rellenos. And I remember clearly how he lingered over my huevos rancheros with salsa fresca, not to mention the quivering flan, warm caramel running down its sides. And all that time, his presence alone was food to me: his hair the color of wheat, his smell of bitter fruit. Then it was enough to have him seated at my table. But finally my hunger grew for more. The table of life is long and wide, but life itself is short. I have learned that it is better to dine alone than to share your food with a reluctant guest. And even now, I know, somewhere outside my windows future guests may be passing. Today I threw away his spotted place card and the withered centerpiece, changed the linens, polished up my pots. I’m ready for someone with a strong, enduring appetite, someone who’ll stay long at the table, who’ll reach out and fill my plate, saying: Bagna cauda? Pasta con funghi? Scampi ai spiedi? Someone who’ll pour out plummy Pinot Noir or steely Chardonnay or clear, cold Fumé Blanc until my glass flows over. Who’ll say, Do you want some more? until we fill each other with a sweet, deep nourishment.